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Cognac: the seductive spirit

Ebony,  Feb, 2006  by Charlotte Lyons

Cognac, which, is intended to interact with all the senses, is often described as the world s most seductive spirit, and is the most decadent spirit because of its complex taste and aroma. It is made only from grapes grown in a small region in the southwestern part of France, where the soil is rich and chalky. By law, only three varieties of white grapes can be used to make cognac--Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche. However, 98 percent of all cognac today is made with the juice of the Ugni Blanc grapes. There are currently more than 300 cognac houses in and around this area, including such popular houses as Martell, Hennessy, Remy Martin, Courvoisier and Hine--all of which have their own distinct style of making cognac. The making of cognac is a labor of love, which requires the finest ingredients to ensure that its quality remains consistent and unsurpassed. A cognac can mature in oak casks for decades, with the wood's porosity allowing a small amount of cognac to evaporate, which is known as "the angels" share." Over time, cognac develops an attractive flavor (floral, fruity bouquet) and subtle aromas of spice, honey and vanilla. After the aged cognac reaches its peak, it is transferred into glass demijohns to stop the aging process. It then awaits the attention of the Master Blender, who, by blending flavors, tries to produce a cognac that will satisfy any cognac connoisseur. In addition to being seductive, cognac is also a versatile spirit, which can be enjoyed in many ways--as an aperitif, as an after-dinner drink or as part of a mixed drink. So make this Valentine's Day special, and treat your sweetheart to a dish made with cognac, or simply enjoy a satisfying sip of this seductive spirit.

How To Read Cognac Labels

VS (Very Special). The youngest cognac, in which the youngest eau de vie ("water of life") is at least 2 years old. The least-expensive cognac is perfect to use in mixed drinks. It's also perfect for cooking and flaming desserts.

V.S.O.P or Reserve (Very Superior Old Pale). The eau de vie is at least 4 1/2 years old. This is your everyday drinking cognac, perfect for cocktails or sipping straight.

XO (Extra Old). The eau de vie is a least 6 1/2 years old. The cost is upwards of $80. This cognac is for dinner parties and romantic occasions, or for special nightly drinking. The cognac houses have other names for blends, including Napoleon, Imperial, Hors d'age, Vieille Reserve, etc.

TASTING TIPS

Use the correct glass to allow the true cognac characteristics to be displayed. The glass most frequently recommended is tulip-shaped because its form allows the entire aroma of the cognac to be contained and slowly released during tasting.

Bring the glass to the nose, so the volatile aromas in the cognac can be smelled. "Montant" is the first fragrance released from cognac.

Swirl the spirit gently in the glass to release the bouquet of the cognac. Fruity or floral aromas may be detected.

Sip a small amount and let it coat the mouth. Cognac reveals its true taste when in contact with the palate. The flavors combine with the aroma to give a true taste and only then can the personality traits of the spirit be revealed, including roundness, sweetness, smoothness, etc. Many different sensations will emerge and allow you to discover and enjoy your favorite cognac.

Side Car

1/2 ounce cognac
1/4 ounce orange liqueur
1/2 ounce lemon juice

Shake with ice and strain into cocktail glass.

Yields 1 serving

Dave Wondrich Olympic

1/5 ounce cognac
1/2 ounce orange liqueur
1/2 ounce orange juice
  2 drops peychauds bitters

Shake and strain into chilled glass.

Yields 1 serving


The Knockout

1 ounce VSOP cognac
1 ounce Cointreau
1 ounce pineapple juice
1 ounce cranberry juice

Shake and pour over ice in tall glass.

Yields 1 serving

Remy French 75

3 ounces champagne
  Splash of VSOP cognac
1 ounce Cointreau
  Dash of lime juice

Serve in a champagne flute.

Yields 1 serving

Hennessy Side Car

2 ounces Hennessy
1 ounce Triple Sec
1 ounce Sour Mix
  Splash of Grand Marnier

Mix ingredients in a shaker over ice. Serve
in a chilled, sugar-rimmed snifter or martini
glass.

Yields 1 serving

How Cognac Is Made

First, the grapes are harvested and fermented naturally into white wine. Then the wine is traditionally distilled in a two-stage process to make the eau de vie. This involves the use of the Charentais still or the alembic still, made entirely of copper, which has not changed since the 17th century. A cognac can mature in oak casks for decades, allowing the spirit to extract the substances from the wood that gives it both its color and its final bouquet. After the aged cognac reaches its peak, it is transferred into glass demijohns to stop the aging process, and it then awaits the attention of the Master Blender.